We were up bright and early, showered, dressed, and downstairs eating breakfast around 8:30. We were checked out of our room, on the boat shuttle, and at the train station by around 9:30 or so. We only had to wait for a short time in the tiny little train station. A few tourist shops, tabacchi (or smoke shop) and a buffet/restaurant that you had overpriced food and drinks. I ran in there for a few waters and we headed out to a bench and froze for about 10 minutes. The station is an open air station - it is covered, but there are no doors. So the wind comes right in and keeps you nice and cold!
Our train arrived fairly early so we headed to our car, found our seats, removed a few layers and got settled. We each had window seats and figured we would have a nice view back to Rome, and only had to stop at a few stations. It would be about a 3 hour trip. The complimentary drinks cart and newspaper cart came by and I had a glass of wine and some cookies. Claudia opted for orange juice, which is from blood oranges, and some olive oil crackers. We settled in and watched Venice slip away and eventually got to see some countryside this time. Neither of us fell asleep for very long. I dozed for maybe 10 or 15 minutes, Claudia maybe slept about 45 minutes.
The countryside was gorgeous. The vibrant green hillsides were dotted with farms, old rustic Italian homes, and vineyards. The occasional sheep were seen here and there, along with a few small lakes. It was really pretty. The temperatures slowly rose and by the time we made it to Rome it was about 55 degrees outside and we shed our jackets immediately.
We made our way to the subway and I had no problem fitting into the Italian culture by now. I was pushing by all the people, with purpose, heading for our train. Claudia got a kick out of it. She told me a lady was all offended that I pushed by her and I just laughed. The one time I put my thoughtfulness aside (which nobody seems to have here) I offend someone. Whatever. Not gonna lose sleep over it.
Got to the hotel quickly and up to our room. (I was hoping and praying for a shower that did not flood the bathroom.) We were in luck. Shower with doors. Score!
What is that smell?? Do you smell that??
We dropped our things, freshened up a bit, then headed out for the closest pharmacy to pick up a few odds and ends. Only we found all of the pharmacies on our street to be closed. It was like Black Friday here in Italy. Every single clothing store slashed their prices from extremely expensive to expensive. We browsed two stores but the chaos was too much. So we decided to head over to our favorite corner store to pick up a few things. Luck would have it - it's closed. Open again tomorrow.
Back through the chaotic streets, dodging smeared dog poop, little kids, dogs in sweaters, women walking and talking on their cell phones while not looking and ramming right into you and making it look like it is your fault. It was crazy. We decided to grab a gelato and head up to the room for a bit while we waited for dinner time, the usual 7 to 7:30 pm Italian dinner time here.
Claudia dozed while I uploaded pictures and checked email. I kept saying to myself, what is that smell?
At first I thought this was a smoking room, but then it didn't exactly smell like smoke. It was like bad lysol covering up the stench of something else. I just couldn't pin point it.
Claudia woke up and said, "What is that smell? Is that like bad cleaning products or something?"
I didn't know what to tell her. All I knew is that it didn't smell pleasant. Then Claudia used the little girls room and said, "Oh my god! The toilet rocks back and forth!"
She came out looking scared. I went in and yes, it rocks back and forth. And yes, the smell is that. And not just rocking back and forth, like ready to fall over back and forth. By the way, this is a modern hotel room, all the amenities, and is costing us about $170 a night. Oh and there is a bidet in the bathroom also, and at this point couldn't decide if it was that, or the toilet. We left the window open and decided to take it easy tonight and just eat in. I was kind of in the mood for some meat and potatoes as was Claudia.
We went downstairs and of course, meat and potatoes is on the menu, as were pasta dishes and yes, a hamburger. Claudia started to ask if the hamburger was an actual hamburger and the young lady says, "No potatoes... finished."
Sigh.
We left. I went up to the room and Claudia just sat in disbelief laughing. I grabbed our coats and scarves and we headed out on foot. We first made a stop at the front desk to tell them about the toilet. She said, "I'm sorry, I don't know what to do, the hotel is full."
Sigh.
We left in disbelief. I was over it. We walked down the street and found a little place that had just opened and nobody was inside. The menu looked good so we went for it. Everyone was so friendly when we walked in, singing Queen's We Will Rock You and being so nice. We started feelling the vibe... until our waiter arrived.
Sigh.
He was uptight and rude. Of course. Just our luck.
We ordered a french fry starter which is the only frozen item on the menu as advertised, and I went for a white pizza with porcini mushrooms, and Claudia went for a pasta dish with porcini mushrooms. (Let me just tell you, porcini mushrooms are like butter... like delicate, pillows of deliciousness. I'm sad it took me this long to figure it out!)
I ordered a pint of beer as I needed to take the edge off from the day, and Claudia a pot of tea. We sat and discussed the day and laughed a bit. How does this happen to us all the time? Maybe it is just for the fact that we can laugh about it in 3 months time...
The food came and WOW! The pizza was sooooo good. It was actually the best pizza I've ever eaten! The crust was so thin and crisp I couldn't believe it! Claudia tried a bite and liked it better than her dish. Then the rush of madness came into the restaurant. People came through the front door ordering pizzas to go... reservations were being filled, a gorgeous Italian man and woman sat next to us and ordered pizza, as did most everyone else. We decided that we would walk over here tomorrow evening grab a pizza, stop at the corner store for a bottle of wine, and finish our last night in Rome in our room with our feet up.
I ordered a second beer as it was cold and hit the spot. The waiter seemed put off by it. So we ordered bread, another pot of tea, asked for oil, then asked for vinegar... we made hiim work. It was enjoyable at that point. (I know, we're sick.)
We left quickly as there was a line outside and just down the small street on the next corner was that fabulous restaurant we ate at for New Years. This neighborhood is a hotspot for restaurants!
A slow and leisurely walk home laughing about the waiter and dying to eat there again tomorrow, we stopped at the tabachi shop and grabbed some water. I knew I would need some after 2 pints of beer.
We got back to the hotel and went up to our sewer stenched room, or is more like foul water? I don't know... but the window is open, the TV is on, and my tummy is stuffed! One last day to go... I have 2 scarves to buy, some balsamic, and maybe some chocolate. Claudia has a similar list... Oh and we will be going to the Vatican to walk around inside and to go see the Sistine Chapel right when it opens. So I should get ready for bed.
Good night all!
Thursday, January 06, 2011
Wednesday, January 05, 2011
Venice - Day 2
We woke up around 8 am both feeling quite rested. We both took showers (mind you the shower is tiny, not much room to move AT ALL.) We bundled up warm and headed down to the breakfast room. The typical fare… bread, hard boiled eggs, ham and cheese, yogurt, cereals, and pastries. We ate until we were full, and had 2 cappuccinos each. Off we went!
Our first item of business was to change our train ticket to an earlier train. Our scheduled train was at 1:30pm, however we decided to leave earlier so we could get back to Rome by 1 pm. We took the boat shuttle to the train station and stood in line for about 15 minutes. We approached the window and said, “Hi, we were wondering if it is possible for us to take an earlier train?” His response, “No.”
Our response, “………”
Claudia then says, “But how do you know if you haven’t seen the ticket yet?”
His response, “No change.”
Claudia’s Mexican started kicking in at this point. She is over the rude Italian attitude.
He then says, “To where, what time.” We responded with Rome, Italy.
With a smug look he said, “It is 20 Euro to change.”
Miss Mexican attitude shoved it right back at him… “Oh… We can pay!” I took out 20 Euros and handed it to him and slid the ticket to us under the window and told us the train #, the time it leaves, and arrives in Rome, and our seat #’s. Nothing else. I don’t recall us saying anything back…
The day was frigid, it was in the 30’s and it was almost 10 am… YIKES! We hopped back on the shuttle boat and headed for a store Claudia wanted to stop into as it was closed the night before. They carried a lot of French items; ecofriendly bags with adorable pictures and drawings, stationary, umbrellas, dolls, purses, and the like. 20 minutes later we each had a bag full of fun items each and headed back to the hotel, about a 2 minute walk to drop them off as it wasn’t on our agenda to carry them around.
Next stop, Piazza San Marco!
We made our way through the maze of tiny streets and rounded the corner to the Piazza and it was packed. People walking around cameras in hand looking all around, young kids playing tag in the wide open area, and many people feeding the hundreds of pigeons around the square… Great people watching!
On we walked some more and our feet were getting a bit tired, and my hands were getting numb from the cold, even with gloves on. It was time to head back to the hotel to warm up prior to venturing out for dinner. We headed to the first floor seating area as the rooms did not get Wi-Fi and I Skyped home to check in with my Mom and Dad. They told me to make sure I had a jacket when I got home late Saturday as it was cold outside… it was about 50 degrees… (I got a chuckle out of that as it was probably down in the 20’s by now outside in Venice!)
(Another side note: Our room was so hot the night before we turned off the heat and cracked the window open to bring the room to a more comfortable temperature. Now we’re back in the room and it is so cold! I turned the heat on so we could get the chill out of the air!)
7:30 pm came upon us quickly and so did the rumble in our tummies… so off we went into the cold night air to find a restaurant. I took us about 2 minutes walking from our hotel and found a tiny little place that looked decent. We went right in and saw a yummy looking pizza on the table of a couple already seated for dinner and we were excited. We started with a carafe of wine and an order of fries. Not sure why, but we always want fries when we go into a restaurant in Europe. I think it is a French fry obsession stemming back to Paris; the fries there are so good!
I ordered a margherita pizza and Claudia ordered the spaghetti carbonara. Both were good, but not blow your mind amazing. We finished our plates and ordered cappuccinos and dessert, tiramisu once again. Pretty good, except this time the coffee was piping hot! (Most every cup of coffee we’ve ordered is not hot. This was piping hot, perfect to warm us up for the cold night air during our short walk back to the hotel. (Not that we needed much as the wine did the job for us already.)
Now back at the hotel, we are in PJ’s sitting in the first floor lounge blogging away and writing out postcards. I like Venice, but I can see why you only need about a day to see it all and fit it all in. There isn’t much more to do here than shop, walk around, take a few pictures, and maybe hit a café or two. We have some damage to do in Rome shopping wise, and are looking forward to a few hot spots in Rome that we thoroughly enjoyed last week. For now, it’s time to call it a night. Good night all, even though it is lunch time in Southern California. Ciao!
Our first item of business was to change our train ticket to an earlier train. Our scheduled train was at 1:30pm, however we decided to leave earlier so we could get back to Rome by 1 pm. We took the boat shuttle to the train station and stood in line for about 15 minutes. We approached the window and said, “Hi, we were wondering if it is possible for us to take an earlier train?” His response, “No.”
Our response, “………”
Claudia then says, “But how do you know if you haven’t seen the ticket yet?”
His response, “No change.”
Claudia’s Mexican started kicking in at this point. She is over the rude Italian attitude.
He then says, “To where, what time.” We responded with Rome, Italy.
With a smug look he said, “It is 20 Euro to change.”
Miss Mexican attitude shoved it right back at him… “Oh… We can pay!” I took out 20 Euros and handed it to him and slid the ticket to us under the window and told us the train #, the time it leaves, and arrives in Rome, and our seat #’s. Nothing else. I don’t recall us saying anything back…
The day was frigid, it was in the 30’s and it was almost 10 am… YIKES! We hopped back on the shuttle boat and headed for a store Claudia wanted to stop into as it was closed the night before. They carried a lot of French items; ecofriendly bags with adorable pictures and drawings, stationary, umbrellas, dolls, purses, and the like. 20 minutes later we each had a bag full of fun items each and headed back to the hotel, about a 2 minute walk to drop them off as it wasn’t on our agenda to carry them around.
Next stop, Piazza San Marco!
We made our way through the maze of tiny streets and rounded the corner to the Piazza and it was packed. People walking around cameras in hand looking all around, young kids playing tag in the wide open area, and many people feeding the hundreds of pigeons around the square… Great people watching!
We took many pictures and headed towards the water and were treated to spectacular views!
We stopped into a coffee shop in the Piazza so we could warm up and I had another coffee, and Claudia a small pot of tea. (Side note: NEVER EVER go to any restaurants or cafes in busy touristy areas.) I opened the menu and gasped – 1 cappuccino was 7 euros and the tea was around 10 euros… Over 20 US dollars! Not only that, our 17 euro bill was handed to us by a waiter who waited on us for about 10 seconds. Claudia handed him a 20 euro bill, he pulled 3 euro change from his pocket and went to hand it to her. She didn’t put her hand out right away so he placed it on the receipt. Then reached right back down, picked up the change, looked at her and said “Thank you madam,” and walked away. We had not planned on tipping as it is not customary; however we absolutely not planned on tipping him due to the outrageous prices! He hovered over us the minute we wanted the bill and was like a leech when we pulled out our money. Not the most pleasant experience.
It was so cold by now, that we headed for a shop to stop in and “browse.” Claudia was looking to purchase a leather bound agenda for her friend and finally found one. We picked it up and headed out once again… passing many of the same stores as the day before. We found the chocolate shop that sold the hot chocolate and ducked in for a cup… YUM!
On we walked some more and our feet were getting a bit tired, and my hands were getting numb from the cold, even with gloves on. It was time to head back to the hotel to warm up prior to venturing out for dinner. We headed to the first floor seating area as the rooms did not get Wi-Fi and I Skyped home to check in with my Mom and Dad. They told me to make sure I had a jacket when I got home late Saturday as it was cold outside… it was about 50 degrees… (I got a chuckle out of that as it was probably down in the 20’s by now outside in Venice!)
(Another side note: Our room was so hot the night before we turned off the heat and cracked the window open to bring the room to a more comfortable temperature. Now we’re back in the room and it is so cold! I turned the heat on so we could get the chill out of the air!)
7:30 pm came upon us quickly and so did the rumble in our tummies… so off we went into the cold night air to find a restaurant. I took us about 2 minutes walking from our hotel and found a tiny little place that looked decent. We went right in and saw a yummy looking pizza on the table of a couple already seated for dinner and we were excited. We started with a carafe of wine and an order of fries. Not sure why, but we always want fries when we go into a restaurant in Europe. I think it is a French fry obsession stemming back to Paris; the fries there are so good!
I ordered a margherita pizza and Claudia ordered the spaghetti carbonara. Both were good, but not blow your mind amazing. We finished our plates and ordered cappuccinos and dessert, tiramisu once again. Pretty good, except this time the coffee was piping hot! (Most every cup of coffee we’ve ordered is not hot. This was piping hot, perfect to warm us up for the cold night air during our short walk back to the hotel. (Not that we needed much as the wine did the job for us already.)
Now back at the hotel, we are in PJ’s sitting in the first floor lounge blogging away and writing out postcards. I like Venice, but I can see why you only need about a day to see it all and fit it all in. There isn’t much more to do here than shop, walk around, take a few pictures, and maybe hit a café or two. We have some damage to do in Rome shopping wise, and are looking forward to a few hot spots in Rome that we thoroughly enjoyed last week. For now, it’s time to call it a night. Good night all, even though it is lunch time in Southern California. Ciao!
Journey to Venice
We started the morning with breakfast and leisurely readied ourselves for the journey to the train station. This time we would enjoy our seat in first class, and not in the walkway between cars!
Arriving 30 minutes early, we grabbed some McDonalds (yes, the golden arches are everywhere) and took it on the train with us. I ate my meal and within 5 minutes I was asleep. I awoke here and there to see the countryside… it was a very beautiful trek to Venice. I just couldn’t keep my eyes open.
We arrived at the Venice train station and exited the station to a gorgeous view of water, boats, gondolas, and freezing cold air. The beautiful buildings are old, exposed brick under lightly colored plaster, aged shutters… Very charming! We took a small boat/shuttle to the Rialto dock and right off the boat was our hotel. It is what I expected, very old, slightly Venice cheesy with flowery furniture, headboard, and gaudy chandelier. But the bathroom is clean and we’re in a good location.
One of the most famous bridges in Venice is right outside the front door of the hotel, and the boat to and from the train station is also right at our front door… so that is nice!
Setting off on foot we were greeted with the scent of hot wine in the air with a touch of salt, and the occasional smell of fish from the outdoor fish market that had just closed. The streets are VERY tiny and the shops small and cute. Lots of masks being sold here, a few leather shops, and lots and lots of Venetian glass; some of it is nice, however most is too gaudy for my taste once again.
Street after street was almost just wide enough for two people to walk side by side, maybe three. Some were well lit, some not, but all were nice. We passed many little bakeries, selling hot chocolate which we immediately ducked into to get out of the cold and ordered some hot chocolate. It definitely warmed us up and we continued on foot once again into the cold, night air. We stopped and checked out menus on all the restaurants to start scoping out a place for dinner. Nothing looked good just yet.
We eventually found the Piazza San Marco, however it was already dark out, so we took a few photos. We decided it would be better to take pictures the next day so we could get the full effect. On we went, and the night got colder and colder. It was in the 30’s and the wind had kicked up off of the water. I imagine with wind chill factored in, it was around 30 to 32 degrees out. We had purchased these fleece hoods that could be warm as a scarf, a cover for your mouth, nose, and ears or as a hood and you could cinch it tight around your face so just your eyes were showing. We both put them on and were so glad we had them with us. It was so cold out!
We found many of the stores to seem repetitive… most all of the paper shops had the exact same paper, the glass shops, the same exact glass as the last. A few unique shops stood out and we ducked into those just to browse. (The shops are all very warm so I think most people do that all day just to warm their hands, feet, and faces.) Also, the Italians love their dogs here. So many dogs, and all well behaved, but their owners need to get on the “bag” bandwagon and actually clean up after them. All of the dogs have cute sweaters on, some even full jackets if they have short fur. It is funny to see a dog owner scold their dog in Italian. I get a good chuckle out of it every time.
It was about 7pm by now and we happened upon a tiny restaurant on a tiny street somewhere beyond our hotel. We went in and it seemed warm and inviting. I think it was family owned, and the interior looked aged and comfortable. We were quickly seated and ordered a carafe of wine and a bowl of soup and a salad to share. The soup was pasta fagioli and it was not like the soup you get in the USA. It was thick and rich and hearty and delicious! The salad had very fresh and very crisp mixed greens, tomatoes, fresh corn and carrots. No salad dressing here by the way… there is olive oil and balsamic vinegar on all of the tables here. And mind you the olive oil tastes fresh… an almost spicy finish. They also brought us some fresh bread, butter, and a plate for the olive oil and balsamic.
Everything on the menu looked amazing, and in Venice the specialty is fish. However I was on the hunt for meat, something hearty. Claudia was on the same hunt as I. We opted for the veal milanese and were very glad we did. It was perfectly cooked and full of flavor. Might I add when you order food here it is hot. So often ordering food in the US it is luke warm, as it has sat under a heat lamp while the waitress gossips with the bus boy…
We ended the evening with cappuccinos and tiramisu that was home made. SO GOOD! (I wish I had remembered to take pictures… but we were so relaxed we forgot!)
It was time to end the night. We headed for our hotel, and within about 10 minutes Claudia was asleep. I stayed up a bit to work on my blog and watched one of two television stations in English – BBC or CNN. I opted for CNN. A nice day, with a relaxing finish… Ciao for now!
Arriving 30 minutes early, we grabbed some McDonalds (yes, the golden arches are everywhere) and took it on the train with us. I ate my meal and within 5 minutes I was asleep. I awoke here and there to see the countryside… it was a very beautiful trek to Venice. I just couldn’t keep my eyes open.
We arrived at the Venice train station and exited the station to a gorgeous view of water, boats, gondolas, and freezing cold air. The beautiful buildings are old, exposed brick under lightly colored plaster, aged shutters… Very charming! We took a small boat/shuttle to the Rialto dock and right off the boat was our hotel. It is what I expected, very old, slightly Venice cheesy with flowery furniture, headboard, and gaudy chandelier. But the bathroom is clean and we’re in a good location.
One of the most famous bridges in Venice is right outside the front door of the hotel, and the boat to and from the train station is also right at our front door… so that is nice!
Setting off on foot we were greeted with the scent of hot wine in the air with a touch of salt, and the occasional smell of fish from the outdoor fish market that had just closed. The streets are VERY tiny and the shops small and cute. Lots of masks being sold here, a few leather shops, and lots and lots of Venetian glass; some of it is nice, however most is too gaudy for my taste once again.
Street after street was almost just wide enough for two people to walk side by side, maybe three. Some were well lit, some not, but all were nice. We passed many little bakeries, selling hot chocolate which we immediately ducked into to get out of the cold and ordered some hot chocolate. It definitely warmed us up and we continued on foot once again into the cold, night air. We stopped and checked out menus on all the restaurants to start scoping out a place for dinner. Nothing looked good just yet.
We eventually found the Piazza San Marco, however it was already dark out, so we took a few photos. We decided it would be better to take pictures the next day so we could get the full effect. On we went, and the night got colder and colder. It was in the 30’s and the wind had kicked up off of the water. I imagine with wind chill factored in, it was around 30 to 32 degrees out. We had purchased these fleece hoods that could be warm as a scarf, a cover for your mouth, nose, and ears or as a hood and you could cinch it tight around your face so just your eyes were showing. We both put them on and were so glad we had them with us. It was so cold out!
We found many of the stores to seem repetitive… most all of the paper shops had the exact same paper, the glass shops, the same exact glass as the last. A few unique shops stood out and we ducked into those just to browse. (The shops are all very warm so I think most people do that all day just to warm their hands, feet, and faces.) Also, the Italians love their dogs here. So many dogs, and all well behaved, but their owners need to get on the “bag” bandwagon and actually clean up after them. All of the dogs have cute sweaters on, some even full jackets if they have short fur. It is funny to see a dog owner scold their dog in Italian. I get a good chuckle out of it every time.
It was about 7pm by now and we happened upon a tiny restaurant on a tiny street somewhere beyond our hotel. We went in and it seemed warm and inviting. I think it was family owned, and the interior looked aged and comfortable. We were quickly seated and ordered a carafe of wine and a bowl of soup and a salad to share. The soup was pasta fagioli and it was not like the soup you get in the USA. It was thick and rich and hearty and delicious! The salad had very fresh and very crisp mixed greens, tomatoes, fresh corn and carrots. No salad dressing here by the way… there is olive oil and balsamic vinegar on all of the tables here. And mind you the olive oil tastes fresh… an almost spicy finish. They also brought us some fresh bread, butter, and a plate for the olive oil and balsamic.
Everything on the menu looked amazing, and in Venice the specialty is fish. However I was on the hunt for meat, something hearty. Claudia was on the same hunt as I. We opted for the veal milanese and were very glad we did. It was perfectly cooked and full of flavor. Might I add when you order food here it is hot. So often ordering food in the US it is luke warm, as it has sat under a heat lamp while the waitress gossips with the bus boy…
We ended the evening with cappuccinos and tiramisu that was home made. SO GOOD! (I wish I had remembered to take pictures… but we were so relaxed we forgot!)
It was time to end the night. We headed for our hotel, and within about 10 minutes Claudia was asleep. I stayed up a bit to work on my blog and watched one of two television stations in English – BBC or CNN. I opted for CNN. A nice day, with a relaxing finish… Ciao for now!
Florence, Day 2
Awoke this morning feeing absolutely exhausted… same for Claudia. We went down for breakfast and happily found eggs, a form of ham or bacon (not sure but it was delicious), fresh fruit, bread, cheese, yogurts and the like. We happily ate the eggs and bacon on bread with cheese, and a cappuccino later we were back in our room. I went back to sleep for about an hour and a half as I was feeling pretty exhausted… and that was all I needed. I awoke feeling good and quickly got ready for the day.
We took it slow today and ventured off on the shuttle the hotel provided. We were dropped off by the termini or train station, and headed off on foot. We saw a tea room and café across the street and it looked inviting. We saw tiny pastries in the window and they served Illy coffee so we were instantly sold. We ordered cappuccinos and a selection of tiny bite sized pastries… all were excellent! Our favorite was a bite sized fruit tart, not too sweet but full of intense fruit flavor! We sipped our coffee and discussed our day ahead… we decided to take it slow and easy as we were both relaxed at this point, and it was only noon.
I was hungry again so I headed to a pizza stand and picked up a slice of pizza with chorizo, pretty good, but I felt like I could have bought this down the street at home. Oh well.
We walked the streets a bit and stopped from time to time to rest our feet. We eventually headed back to the Ponte Vecchio for some day time pictures and it was well worth it.
It was a truly gorgeous day out! (Reminiscent of San Francisco, warm in the sun with a cool breeze, but walk in the shade and it was freezing cold!) We took some neat pictures at the top of the bridge itself! See below!
We headed across the bridge and found a spot of sunshine prior to the sun leaving us for the chilly night air and warmed up a bit, then continued on. The streets were busy, and the cafes were bustling. We stopped in a few shops, browsing the paper goods, leather, and scarfs. I told myself I wanted to get a very nice leather bag to bring home, however I had not come across one yet. The sun was setting and I knew the stores would close soon. As luck would have it, I saw it in the window of a small leather shop. All of their leather is handmade in Italy with Italian manpower. You can tell by the feel and the stitching… the bag is gorgeous. Also sprung for a nice wallet too, why not!? He explained that after 5 or 10 years should it require cleaning, just a little shoe polish will take care of it. I thought to myself, 5 to 10 years?!? Wow… (I paid a pretty penny, but I’m worth it!)
We continued on to attempt to find a locals only restaurant for dinner, but didn’t have much luck. We heard about a restaurant that specialized in pork, but no matter how hard we tried, we could not find it. A few locals had heard of it, knew the basic location, but overall the helpfulness of the locals was less than welcoming. (Funny how people always assume the French are rude, I’ve had quite the opposite experience in France, but the Italians in Florence I’ve found were all quite rude. Minus one or two people here and there.)
Claudia saw a small bar and café during our excursion for the pork restaurant and we opted to go there instead to rest our feet and maybe have a coffee then find a different place for dinner. Café Verrazzano was inviting and comfortable. When we walked in and asked for a table for 2, we were greeted by a New Englander… a Red Sox fan I might add! He was quite the character; talkative, full of weird facts and trivia questions, along with being fluent in Spanish, French, Italian, and English. His family owns Verrazzano winery and he was very proud of that.
His family produced great Chianti, he brought Claudia a 2003 and myself a 2004 that spent some time in oak barrels. I must say I was quite impressed. He asked if we wanted something to eat with the wine, and Claudia said, “Just bring us your best!”
He did.
It was like a pancake made of chickpea flour, friend in olive oil. A thin slice of prosciutto and cheese, white truffle shavings, fresh cracked pepper, and a small spoonful of white truffle cream… Oh…my…gosh… I think we both fainted at first bite. I didn’t want it to end! Nor did Claudia!
He asked if we were still interested in more food… OF COURSE WE WERE!
He brought out bruschetta and drizzled it with 12 year old balsamic vinegar. And by drizzle, I mean drizzle. At 38 Euro for a tiny little bottle… you can guess it was excellent! We polished that off and he brought us one final treat. It was a small slice of bread made in Florence, pecorino cheese, orange zest and thousand flower honey that is made on the winery. WOW! So simple, and so flavorful with the orange zest and honey, balanced with the pecorino cheese. This was truly a great place!
We finished off the evening with a cappuccino and a plate of desserts. Very small slices of tarts from bakery case… a ricotta cream tart that was so amazing, an apple tart, and a chocolate tart. All were so delicious and not rich or to sweet. That is something I love about Europe; none of the desserts are overly sweet and they aren’t the size of a small car. The USA needs to get on the European band wagon when it comes to desserts for sure!
We purchased the honey and bid him farewell – I highly recommend this place for great Chianti and some delicious treats!
A slow stroll to the train station for our shuttle was now on the agenda… and before you knew it, we were back at the hotel.
It was a great day, and great food, and great memories. Now to prepare for Venice!
Good night all, Ciao!
We took it slow today and ventured off on the shuttle the hotel provided. We were dropped off by the termini or train station, and headed off on foot. We saw a tea room and café across the street and it looked inviting. We saw tiny pastries in the window and they served Illy coffee so we were instantly sold. We ordered cappuccinos and a selection of tiny bite sized pastries… all were excellent! Our favorite was a bite sized fruit tart, not too sweet but full of intense fruit flavor! We sipped our coffee and discussed our day ahead… we decided to take it slow and easy as we were both relaxed at this point, and it was only noon.
I was hungry again so I headed to a pizza stand and picked up a slice of pizza with chorizo, pretty good, but I felt like I could have bought this down the street at home. Oh well.
We walked the streets a bit and stopped from time to time to rest our feet. We eventually headed back to the Ponte Vecchio for some day time pictures and it was well worth it.
It was a truly gorgeous day out! (Reminiscent of San Francisco, warm in the sun with a cool breeze, but walk in the shade and it was freezing cold!) We took some neat pictures at the top of the bridge itself! See below!
We headed across the bridge and found a spot of sunshine prior to the sun leaving us for the chilly night air and warmed up a bit, then continued on. The streets were busy, and the cafes were bustling. We stopped in a few shops, browsing the paper goods, leather, and scarfs. I told myself I wanted to get a very nice leather bag to bring home, however I had not come across one yet. The sun was setting and I knew the stores would close soon. As luck would have it, I saw it in the window of a small leather shop. All of their leather is handmade in Italy with Italian manpower. You can tell by the feel and the stitching… the bag is gorgeous. Also sprung for a nice wallet too, why not!? He explained that after 5 or 10 years should it require cleaning, just a little shoe polish will take care of it. I thought to myself, 5 to 10 years?!? Wow… (I paid a pretty penny, but I’m worth it!)
We continued on to attempt to find a locals only restaurant for dinner, but didn’t have much luck. We heard about a restaurant that specialized in pork, but no matter how hard we tried, we could not find it. A few locals had heard of it, knew the basic location, but overall the helpfulness of the locals was less than welcoming. (Funny how people always assume the French are rude, I’ve had quite the opposite experience in France, but the Italians in Florence I’ve found were all quite rude. Minus one or two people here and there.)
Claudia saw a small bar and café during our excursion for the pork restaurant and we opted to go there instead to rest our feet and maybe have a coffee then find a different place for dinner. Café Verrazzano was inviting and comfortable. When we walked in and asked for a table for 2, we were greeted by a New Englander… a Red Sox fan I might add! He was quite the character; talkative, full of weird facts and trivia questions, along with being fluent in Spanish, French, Italian, and English. His family owns Verrazzano winery and he was very proud of that.
His family produced great Chianti, he brought Claudia a 2003 and myself a 2004 that spent some time in oak barrels. I must say I was quite impressed. He asked if we wanted something to eat with the wine, and Claudia said, “Just bring us your best!”
He did.
It was like a pancake made of chickpea flour, friend in olive oil. A thin slice of prosciutto and cheese, white truffle shavings, fresh cracked pepper, and a small spoonful of white truffle cream… Oh…my…gosh… I think we both fainted at first bite. I didn’t want it to end! Nor did Claudia!
He asked if we were still interested in more food… OF COURSE WE WERE!
He brought out bruschetta and drizzled it with 12 year old balsamic vinegar. And by drizzle, I mean drizzle. At 38 Euro for a tiny little bottle… you can guess it was excellent! We polished that off and he brought us one final treat. It was a small slice of bread made in Florence, pecorino cheese, orange zest and thousand flower honey that is made on the winery. WOW! So simple, and so flavorful with the orange zest and honey, balanced with the pecorino cheese. This was truly a great place!
We finished off the evening with a cappuccino and a plate of desserts. Very small slices of tarts from bakery case… a ricotta cream tart that was so amazing, an apple tart, and a chocolate tart. All were so delicious and not rich or to sweet. That is something I love about Europe; none of the desserts are overly sweet and they aren’t the size of a small car. The USA needs to get on the European band wagon when it comes to desserts for sure!
We purchased the honey and bid him farewell – I highly recommend this place for great Chianti and some delicious treats!
A slow stroll to the train station for our shuttle was now on the agenda… and before you knew it, we were back at the hotel.
It was a great day, and great food, and great memories. Now to prepare for Venice!
Good night all, Ciao!
Monday, January 03, 2011
Leaving Rome, on to Florence
We awoke somewhat refreshed and headed straight down to breakfast first thing. We needed to eat, pack up our remaining stuff, and head to the train station for our 11:50 am train. We were checked out of the hotel by 10:00 am and on the Metro in about 10 minutes. We made it to the train station at about 10:30 am or so… plenty of time to find the correct train and then sit down in a café within the station for a coffee, finish up some postcards, and then head out.
We looked at the screens for our train… and couldn’t find it. Odd. So we stopped and pulled out the ticket and as I stared at the screen I heard, “OH MY GOD!!! OH MY GOD!!!” I replied, “What?!!? What??!!? …… Don’t tell me…. We missed our train?”
Yes.
Our train left at 10:15, arrival to Florence at 11:50.
Sigh.
We had first class seat on the train, reserved seats I might add.
We took off for the information booth… They said we can get on the train and pay an 8 euro fee to ride, but the train was full. The next train left in about 15 minutes. We ran to platform 9 and found a nice, comfortable spots stuck between cars in the aisle and on the steps in and out of the train. So not only did we not get seats, we had to pay more to sit in between the cars the whole way to Florence. We had a small window so we could see the countryside. Claudia vowed we would have our first class seats for Venice.
We were lucky enough to be first off of the train… when you sit on the stairs going in and out of car # 2, these are the priveleges.
We quickly found a taxi and headed to our hotel… and it is nice! Big room, comfy, and clean.
Both of us spent little time putting our stuff away and headed back down to the front desk for assistance. She had explained at check in the bus runs every 15 minutes and that we could buy tickets from her when we came down. Great!
We went down to buy tickets, she said, “Well I only have 1 ticket left, you can buy on the bus for 2 euro.” So we bought the one remaining from her and I held on to 2 euro to purchase one on the bus. We then asked what time the bus would arrive… “Well, it’s Sunday. About every 15 to 20 minutes.”
Sitting on a cold bus stop bench watching tiny Fiat cars, Vespa’s, and various tiny European cars speed by was pleasant. The old man who sat next to me and told me if I come to Italy I must learn Italian was sort of pleasant while he scolded my lack of Italian skill. It was hilarious when he got up and starting scolding other people for poor driving habits, and who knows what else. And we sat. And waited. We finally saw the bus coming and it was PACKED! I now know what it’s like to be a sardine. The bus driver had no more tickets, so I no more pay for no more tickets I told him. He nodded.
Within 10 minutes we were off the bus headed for Il Duomo… and what a sight! This glorious, beautiful dome towering above us. The bells were tolling in the tower… and every one would just stop and stare at it and marvel. It was gorgeous.
We continued on and found stores and vendors selling leather, leather, and more leather. Also tons of gorgeous stationary, paper, pens and the like were on all the tourist carts and pretty much every other tiny shop along the streets. We ducked into a few and marveled at the paper and the prices for said paper. We then happened upon the street where a short line formed to see the statue of David. We made the line quickly and went through security into the small museum. The statue of David is breathtaking. It was larger than life, and detailed beyond belief. Photos were not allowed, but I of course snuck a few…
We found a bench and sat down for some time just admiring the statue. If you spend time paying attention to the details in his face, eyes, hair… even the veins in his arms and neck… you can get lost. Truly a beautiful sight.
On we went… walking and walking and walking… for such a tiny place, you sure can walk a lot.
We eventually happened upon the Ponte Vecchio and it was light up gorgeously. The details of the little bridge are stunning… So old and so oddly mismatched… like a child with glue just did a cut and paste project. I loved it! We walked across and it was packed! Most of the jewelry shops had closed, but it was still so exciting with all of the people going back and forth… people stopping here and there to take picture after picture. Very gorgeous views of the river people and the lights of the city… we took it all in, but our feet were pounding by now and we were hungry.
We eventually happened upon a small restaurant called di Cati Filippo and the whole menu was in Italian. It was packed inside and smelled wonderful. We were seated quickly and ordered French fries to start as we were both so hungry. Then a salad came along that we split and also penne arrabbiata that was fantastic! Slightly spicy, delicious and al dente! We also split a small prosciutto and mushroom pizza that was good, but not the best pizza we’ve had here in Italy. Finished off the meal with house made tiramisu that was to die for… nothing you’ve ever had in the USA, soooo yummy!
After a nice meal and 2 glasses of chianti each later… we were off to the bus stop to head back to the hotel. It was a great day, but the walking was just about enough for both of us. I called my Mom on Skype, Claudia also called her Dad on Skype, and as midnight hit… we both hit the pillows! We want to start early in the morning! Good night all!
We looked at the screens for our train… and couldn’t find it. Odd. So we stopped and pulled out the ticket and as I stared at the screen I heard, “OH MY GOD!!! OH MY GOD!!!” I replied, “What?!!? What??!!? …… Don’t tell me…. We missed our train?”
Yes.
Our train left at 10:15, arrival to Florence at 11:50.
Sigh.
We had first class seat on the train, reserved seats I might add.
We took off for the information booth… They said we can get on the train and pay an 8 euro fee to ride, but the train was full. The next train left in about 15 minutes. We ran to platform 9 and found a nice, comfortable spots stuck between cars in the aisle and on the steps in and out of the train. So not only did we not get seats, we had to pay more to sit in between the cars the whole way to Florence. We had a small window so we could see the countryside. Claudia vowed we would have our first class seats for Venice.
We were lucky enough to be first off of the train… when you sit on the stairs going in and out of car # 2, these are the priveleges.
We quickly found a taxi and headed to our hotel… and it is nice! Big room, comfy, and clean.
Both of us spent little time putting our stuff away and headed back down to the front desk for assistance. She had explained at check in the bus runs every 15 minutes and that we could buy tickets from her when we came down. Great!
We went down to buy tickets, she said, “Well I only have 1 ticket left, you can buy on the bus for 2 euro.” So we bought the one remaining from her and I held on to 2 euro to purchase one on the bus. We then asked what time the bus would arrive… “Well, it’s Sunday. About every 15 to 20 minutes.”
Sitting on a cold bus stop bench watching tiny Fiat cars, Vespa’s, and various tiny European cars speed by was pleasant. The old man who sat next to me and told me if I come to Italy I must learn Italian was sort of pleasant while he scolded my lack of Italian skill. It was hilarious when he got up and starting scolding other people for poor driving habits, and who knows what else. And we sat. And waited. We finally saw the bus coming and it was PACKED! I now know what it’s like to be a sardine. The bus driver had no more tickets, so I no more pay for no more tickets I told him. He nodded.
Within 10 minutes we were off the bus headed for Il Duomo… and what a sight! This glorious, beautiful dome towering above us. The bells were tolling in the tower… and every one would just stop and stare at it and marvel. It was gorgeous.
We continued on and found stores and vendors selling leather, leather, and more leather. Also tons of gorgeous stationary, paper, pens and the like were on all the tourist carts and pretty much every other tiny shop along the streets. We ducked into a few and marveled at the paper and the prices for said paper. We then happened upon the street where a short line formed to see the statue of David. We made the line quickly and went through security into the small museum. The statue of David is breathtaking. It was larger than life, and detailed beyond belief. Photos were not allowed, but I of course snuck a few…
We found a bench and sat down for some time just admiring the statue. If you spend time paying attention to the details in his face, eyes, hair… even the veins in his arms and neck… you can get lost. Truly a beautiful sight.
On we went… walking and walking and walking… for such a tiny place, you sure can walk a lot.
We eventually happened upon the Ponte Vecchio and it was light up gorgeously. The details of the little bridge are stunning… So old and so oddly mismatched… like a child with glue just did a cut and paste project. I loved it! We walked across and it was packed! Most of the jewelry shops had closed, but it was still so exciting with all of the people going back and forth… people stopping here and there to take picture after picture. Very gorgeous views of the river people and the lights of the city… we took it all in, but our feet were pounding by now and we were hungry.
We eventually happened upon a small restaurant called di Cati Filippo and the whole menu was in Italian. It was packed inside and smelled wonderful. We were seated quickly and ordered French fries to start as we were both so hungry. Then a salad came along that we split and also penne arrabbiata that was fantastic! Slightly spicy, delicious and al dente! We also split a small prosciutto and mushroom pizza that was good, but not the best pizza we’ve had here in Italy. Finished off the meal with house made tiramisu that was to die for… nothing you’ve ever had in the USA, soooo yummy!
After a nice meal and 2 glasses of chianti each later… we were off to the bus stop to head back to the hotel. It was a great day, but the walking was just about enough for both of us. I called my Mom on Skype, Claudia also called her Dad on Skype, and as midnight hit… we both hit the pillows! We want to start early in the morning! Good night all!
Sunday, January 02, 2011
Rome, Day 5 – New Year’s Day
It was a fitful night sleep for me. I think it was the cappuccino after dinner prior to the New Year’s Eve chaos, but it was about 5 am when I fell asleep. Needless to say we got a late start to the day. We got out of the hotel just after noon and it was lightly raining outside. The chill in the air was way less than the previous days. We walked back towards Piazza Di Popolo, or as I lovingly call it Chaos square, and could see the remnants of the night strewn across the street. Broken bottles, confetti, corks, beer cans and bottles, fireworks… but it was a nice day none the less.
The streets along the Piazza were packed, as were the café’s. People looking to get out of the rain and sip espresso, eat risotto, and talk the day away. We had been down two of the three streets and opted for the remaining street to stroll along and explore. (On New Year’s Day, just about everything is closed but the restaurants and café’s.)
Once again, our luck was on point for food – a small pizza and coffee shop was open and it seemed that everyone was stopping there. I could see about 10 different types of pizza, from hot dogs, to parma ham, to margarita, to unidentifiable toppings. We opted for the margarita. You get one large square slice, they cut it in half and fold it over so it pretty much resembles a sandwich. One bite and I could see why it was packed inside. It was delicious! Light, crisp crust, not greasy or over powering. The toppings basil and tomato were spot on and the cheese gooey, yet light at the same time.
We ducked under an overhang and finished off the pizza as the rain drizzled on top of people and their little umbrellas. It seems we started a trend under the overhang and were joined by all sorts of people.
We finished and moved on. Stores were closed, but the amount of people in the streets was almost unheard of. It was like Disneyland on a summer day – packed! We decided to head towards the Spanish Steps to see it during the day time and it was worth it. People were everywhere, a rainbow of colored umbrellas filled the streets and there we were to take pictures and soak it all in. It was truly a beautiful day.
We then proceeded on down the streets to see the Trevi fountain during the day… along with half of Italy it seemed. So many people packed the little space provided around the fountain, but we didn’t mind. We slowly made our way through and made another wish and tossed coins over our shoulders. We sat and took it all in… it really is beautiful during the day too. You can get more of the feel of the stone during the day.
Claudia recalled that a good friend of hers mentioned a great gelateria right there by the fountain, as I only saw two open, we thought we would peek inside to see if we could distinguish between the two. It was not difficult. One store had about 20 people outside eating ice cream, so that’s where we went. Claudia ordered 2 scoops of milk gelato and hazelnut. I opted for straciatella (chocolate chip) and nutella. Wow… he was right! I can recall our favorite gelato in 2009 in a little town in Germany owned by Italians… that was great gelato. But this was spot on DELICIOUS. And yes, it’s cold outside, but gelato is eaten all the time it seems. Rain or shine. We continued to walk along the streets and stumbled upon a festival, or carnival if you will in the Piazza Novana – where we had the hot European drinking chocolate. And yes you guessed it, we ordered it again. See below. And this time, I opted for the mixed chocolates… SO SO SO SO SO GOOD!!!
Packed with families, tourists, young and old… vendors selling candy, books, leather goods, scarves, hats… then you had small chestnut vendors roasting chestnuts and selling them in small cones as if it was popcorn… I don’t care for chestnuts, but the Italians do! Small lunch trucks setup selling pizza, paninis, donuts, pastries, wine, champagne, beer, soda, water… Cotton candy stalls, balloons… It was crazy! We sat for a spell and I took some photos and started getting a bit thirsty… so I did as the Italians, ordered an icy cold adult beverage. We walked on and made our way out of the madness. We hopped on a bus and headed back towards the Vatican as it was a short walk to the hotel. Claudia was tired and we had to pack that evening so we could prepare ourselves for the next leg of the journey. Florence, Italy is our next destination… I read that this is the place for leather goods and great food! (I know, I know… I can’t help it, I love food!)
So to all, I bid you a good night and pleasant dreams. I shall blog next from Florence, Italy!
The streets along the Piazza were packed, as were the café’s. People looking to get out of the rain and sip espresso, eat risotto, and talk the day away. We had been down two of the three streets and opted for the remaining street to stroll along and explore. (On New Year’s Day, just about everything is closed but the restaurants and café’s.)
Once again, our luck was on point for food – a small pizza and coffee shop was open and it seemed that everyone was stopping there. I could see about 10 different types of pizza, from hot dogs, to parma ham, to margarita, to unidentifiable toppings. We opted for the margarita. You get one large square slice, they cut it in half and fold it over so it pretty much resembles a sandwich. One bite and I could see why it was packed inside. It was delicious! Light, crisp crust, not greasy or over powering. The toppings basil and tomato were spot on and the cheese gooey, yet light at the same time.
We ducked under an overhang and finished off the pizza as the rain drizzled on top of people and their little umbrellas. It seems we started a trend under the overhang and were joined by all sorts of people.
We finished and moved on. Stores were closed, but the amount of people in the streets was almost unheard of. It was like Disneyland on a summer day – packed! We decided to head towards the Spanish Steps to see it during the day time and it was worth it. People were everywhere, a rainbow of colored umbrellas filled the streets and there we were to take pictures and soak it all in. It was truly a beautiful day.
We then proceeded on down the streets to see the Trevi fountain during the day… along with half of Italy it seemed. So many people packed the little space provided around the fountain, but we didn’t mind. We slowly made our way through and made another wish and tossed coins over our shoulders. We sat and took it all in… it really is beautiful during the day too. You can get more of the feel of the stone during the day.
Claudia recalled that a good friend of hers mentioned a great gelateria right there by the fountain, as I only saw two open, we thought we would peek inside to see if we could distinguish between the two. It was not difficult. One store had about 20 people outside eating ice cream, so that’s where we went. Claudia ordered 2 scoops of milk gelato and hazelnut. I opted for straciatella (chocolate chip) and nutella. Wow… he was right! I can recall our favorite gelato in 2009 in a little town in Germany owned by Italians… that was great gelato. But this was spot on DELICIOUS. And yes, it’s cold outside, but gelato is eaten all the time it seems. Rain or shine. We continued to walk along the streets and stumbled upon a festival, or carnival if you will in the Piazza Novana – where we had the hot European drinking chocolate. And yes you guessed it, we ordered it again. See below. And this time, I opted for the mixed chocolates… SO SO SO SO SO GOOD!!!
Packed with families, tourists, young and old… vendors selling candy, books, leather goods, scarves, hats… then you had small chestnut vendors roasting chestnuts and selling them in small cones as if it was popcorn… I don’t care for chestnuts, but the Italians do! Small lunch trucks setup selling pizza, paninis, donuts, pastries, wine, champagne, beer, soda, water… Cotton candy stalls, balloons… It was crazy! We sat for a spell and I took some photos and started getting a bit thirsty… so I did as the Italians, ordered an icy cold adult beverage. We walked on and made our way out of the madness. We hopped on a bus and headed back towards the Vatican as it was a short walk to the hotel. Claudia was tired and we had to pack that evening so we could prepare ourselves for the next leg of the journey. Florence, Italy is our next destination… I read that this is the place for leather goods and great food! (I know, I know… I can’t help it, I love food!)
So to all, I bid you a good night and pleasant dreams. I shall blog next from Florence, Italy!
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